his post was written by Zach, customer service specialist and resident shaving expert! He’s been actively working to improve our Men’s section, bringing in the best natural and effective bodycare products out there!
In my previous post on shaving naturally I mentioned ‘wetshaving’ as a method of shaving that has been gaining a following in recent years amongst those looking for a better grooming experience, to lessen their impact on the environment, and to save money in the process. What follows is a brief explanation of some of the tools and methods involved.
Wetshaving refers to a style of shaving that uses some combination of the following tools and products in conjunction with particular techniques discussed below. The tools used are: double edged safety razor or straight razor, shaving brush, traditional shaving cream or soap, shaving oil, styptic, and aftershave. Up until the invention of disposable cartridge razors, wetshaving methods, products, and techniques were the world standard. And although many advocate using wetshaving products like a shaving brush, shaving oil, or a styptic for the best results, simply by altering technique one can improve the quality of the shaving experience.
Wetshaving vs. Conventional Shaving & Wetshaving Basics
In contrast to the ‘quick’ process of shaving with a disposable cartridge razor like the Gillette Mach 3 or Fusion Proglide, wetshaving is a process of deliberate actions that requires more attention but gives a substantially closer shave and with proper technique, less irritation.
When using a safety razor the entire razor is solid with no pivoting head and there is no ‘bumper guard’, meaning that the blade is in direct contact with the skin and that it is up to the user to maintain a proper blade angle and proper razor pressure. This is vital. With disposable cartridge razors the razor head is designed to pivot so that the user doesn’t have to adjust the blades’ angle against the skin and they are designed with a ‘bumper’ so that the user doesn’t need to control the pressure of the razor against the skin. This is helpful in that the user doesn’t have to exert much control over the razor, however this ‘one size fits all’ approach leaves many with unsatisfactory results.
In general, most wetshave enthusiasts recommend a ‘30 degree’ blade angle for a nick-free, friction-free shave. The easiest way to get this angle is to hold the very top of the razor against the skin and to gradually lower the razor until the blade just touches the skin and shaving strokes are comfortable. As far as pressure is concerned, with a safety razor the user need not apply any pressure early on in their wetshaving career as the weight of the razor will be plenty to give a good shave. As you become more comfortable with the safety razor, you can experiment with increased pressure. New users often find that short, even strokes provide the best shave as they become accustomed to using a safety razor.
That being said, this combination of light-to-no pressure and good ‘blade angle’ is a goal and not a rule. Each persons body, tools, and techniques are different and require a period of experimentation and accustomization. For a more detailed tutorial on wetshaving with pictures, see this link or search Google for “wetshaving tutorial.”
Wetshaving Method/Procedures
This is not written in stone, it is just what I have personally found works best for me. Many wetshave enthusiasts advocate a similar procedure, but be open to trying different things and find what works best for you. This is an adapted form of the ‘method shaving’ technique which features three passes of the razor (with the grain, perpendicular to the grain, and against the grain.) One of the phrases commonly used by wetshave enthusiasts to describe the process is: ‘Wetshaving is a process of hair reduction, not removal.’
Prep
Using a shaving brush and shaving cream/soap, work up a good lather in a bowl. The lather should be thick but not ‘dry’, meaning that it should be almost the consistency of conventional shaving cream and should be plenty slick when dabbed on the back of the hand. This is where the shaving brush can make a huge difference: the many bristles in a shaving brush create a lather that is thicker and denser than almost any conventional shaving cream or gel can provide.
How to create lather with shaving brush and shaving cream/soap:
Run shaving brush under water and saturate well. Shake out excess once or twice leaving the brush still fairly wet.
If using shaving cream or gel, apply a nickel-to-quarter sized dollop in a bowl and using your shaving brush, ‘whip’ in circles until desired lather is reached.
If using shaving soap, rub bristle tips of brush against shaving soap until it is starting to work up a slight lather on its own and then ‘whip’ the brush in a bowl until desired lather is reached.
Wetshaving Procedure:
First Pass (with the grain)
- Splash cold water on face
- Apply shaving oil (nickel sized amount)
- Splash cold water on Face
- Apply shaving cream/soap with shaving brush or hands
- Rinse face with cold water
- Pat dry (don’t rub!)
Second Pass (perpendicular to the grain)
- Splash water on face
- Apply shaving oil (nickel sized amount)
- Splash water on Face
- Apply shaving cream/soap with shaving brush or hands
- Rinse face with water
- Pat dry (don’t rub!)
Third Pass (against the grain, skip if skin is too sensitive)
- Splash cold water on face
- Apply shaving oil(nickel sized amount)
- Splash cold water on face
- Apply shaving cream/soap with shaving brush or hands
- Rinse face with cold water
- Pat dry (don’t rub!)
- Post Shave Care
- Splash cold water on face
- Evenly apply styptic (witch hazel or alum)
- Clean shaving tools (razor, brush, and bowl)
- Rinse face with cold water
- Pat dry (don’t rub!)
- Apply aftershave balm or tonic
Cambridge Naturals is proud to offer a selection of wetshaving products including Merkur safety razors, Vie-Long natural and ethical horse hair shaving brushes, as well as local, artisanal, and imported shaving oils, creams, soaps and aftershaves. Please call the store at (617) 492-4452 for specific product inquires.