Beauty Uniform: Shannon of Noel Herbal Skincare

By Mary, CN Body Care Buyer & The Naturalist Contributor

The secret is out: beauty really does come from within. What we choose to eat everyday affects our health internally, and will be displayed externally (#nofilter). Hydration levels, the liver’s ability to cleanse accumulated toxins, and especially increased levels of inflammation due to diet and lifestyle all affect skin conditions. And it’s safe to say that most of us are looking for youthful radiance and resilience when we talk about our skin needs.

Shannon of Noel Herbal Skincare is a local aesthetician and practicing herbalist. She uses her knowledge of plants to help her clients find balance with topical, hands on treatment in her studio, as well as take home advice to apply once they leave the comfort of the spa treatment they’ve received.

There’s something really magical about using the plants around us both internally and externally to treat our body holistically, and Shannon does just that. Below is a recent interview with the skincare maven herself, including some invaluable advice and insight into her personal and professional practice.

You’ve been a skincare therapist for over 10 years, what has been the biggest change in skin care during that time?

Good question!  The skincare world is constantly evolving, and often times can feel overwhelming. For me the biggest change has been the advancement of new technology & machines that perform various actions for the skin.  They have their benefits, but I believe a personal touch is much more beneficial to the overall well being of a person resulting in happy balanced skin. Nourishing ourselves from within reflects how we look on the outside. I like to take care of the person as a whole, and create a space of healing & connection. I feel that nature is all the science I need, and that true healing begins from within.  In a world where computers and machines are taking over I want to stay true to personal touch and connection.

As plant lovers, we have a deep understanding that health and beauty start from the inside with what we put in our bodies. Do you have a few foods or plant allies that you have a certain connection to in this sense that you could tell us more about?

Yes I could not agree more.  I eat lots of fresh veggies, fruits, fish, & healthy fats.  Learning more about my skin over the years, I have found the crucial importance of healthy fats. Omega 3’s help to balance the production of sebum which is the oil in your skin.  Avocados are wonderful for this and happen to be one of my favorite foods.  I could eat them with every meal :)

For my plant friends I really love burdock root & marshmallow for their affinity to the skin.  Burdock root is a wonderful blood cleanser, which helps to clear those unwanted toxins.  This is extremely beneficial for anyone who is struggling with chronic skin issues like acne, eczema & psoriasis.  It is also loaded with prebiotics helping our gut flora.  Our gut health is so important to our overall health so anything to help support this is highly recommended.

I see so many individuals whose skin is compromised due to a lack of hydration to the skin. I love marshmallow for its extreme moistening effect to the body.  It is a demulcent meaning that it can carry water into many types of tissue in the body.  Marshmallow is wonderful for anyone who doesn’t hold on to water very well, myself included.  They may drink a lot of water, but do not retain it.  Marshmallow helps the water stick because of its mucilage and mineral content. Also really great for anyone dealing with gut inflammation, which is an all too common issue.

What is the most common skin complaint you hear from your clients and how do you address it?

The most common complaint that I hear about is; clogged pores (acne) and aging skin that has lost its luster.  Clogged pores can be a result from improper use of products, diet, & dehydration or all of the above.  I help clients learn about healthy anti-inflammatory foods, and herbs that can help soothe & heal the gut, & clean out toxins that may be resulting in skin related issues, and also educate on healthy products to maintain their skin with at home.

Aging is inevitable and also a very personal experience. As we get older, the skin’s natural shedding process slows down which causes a buildup of dead skin cells resulting in a dry, dull, even sometimes flaky appearance. A good exfoliation is important for our skin’s health.  It allows for better product penetration and gives you a healthier more vibrant appearance.

Do you have any special self care or skin care rituals you make time for each day, or each week?

When I am not running back & forth to Cambridge Naturals :) … I always no matter how tired I am, will wash my skin before bed and when I wake up in the morning.  I include a combination of serums & a moisturizer.  I love using hyaluronic acid, it’s such a simple but amazing ingredient that I find it really helps my skin stay healthy and hydrated.  I also love using Niacinamide, which is vitamin b3; it’s great for cutting & working through sensitivity. Once a week I make a mask with herbal tea.  I love French green clay so that is usually the base, and the tea infusion with a bit of honey is the rest. It’s really nice because I get to enjoy a cup of tea and also see how the herbs work on the skin.

What has inspired or continues to inspire your own beauty uniform?

I think herbs have really inspired me to take my skincare practice to the next level.  I have always believed in a holistic practice, but now having the foundation of being a practicing herbalist I am better able to guide my clients on a healthy path. Plants and helping clients find their own personal “happy state” is what continues to inspire me.

If you could offer one piece of advice to those inspired to adopt a natural skincare routine, what would it be?

I would say to anyone wanting to adopt a healthy regimen to become aware of safe ingredients vs. toxic ingredients.  A product label can market itself as anything, but after reading more into the list of ingredients you may find something that says it’s “all natural” may in fact be harmful to our bodies.  Lots of ingredients that are on the product shelves in my opinion are outdated and not safe.  Really familiarize yourself with reading a list of ingredients and not the headliner of the product that gets your attention.  Make a commitment to yourself and keep it simple ☺
 

And lastly, what are your top three favorite Cambridge Naturals products?

Ahh there’s so many making this is extremely tough!  I love the Evan Healy Wild Carrot eye balm, Sun Potion (Reishi), & the Bach flower essences.  I also really love Heart Grown wild face serums; the ‘Veil of Love’ is magical

Thank you so much for sharing your beauty uniform with us, Shannon! Noel Herbal Skincare is located at 689 Somerville Ave in Somerville and Shannon is now offering 20% off new customers first treatment when you mention this post! For updates follow @noel_herbals on instagram.

Learning From Plants Directly

By Steph Zabel,
Herbalist, Ethnobotanist and Educator

In this spring season the plants are quietly emerging and greenness is returning to the land. Perhaps you’ve spotted the violets popping up around town. Soon we will have an abundance of these indigo gems sprouting up... Hopefully you will take the time to pluck a few to adorn your spring salads, or to place in a small vase in your home.

Now in early May, we may feel our restless hearts yearning for full-on warm weather and all of the blossoms it brings. We notice that things are changing very quickly and every day something new is emerging from the ground. So I send out this reminder: pay attention to the trees and weeds and bulbs that are sprouting at this very moment. You can learn so much from their growth and unfolding.

Perhaps this is a new idea for you -- Did you know that you can learn from plants directly, without a mediator (i.e. a teacher/herbalist) in the middle? You can! And it is likely much more simple than you ever expected.

“In my practice I believe it is so important to taste, smell, observe and interact with herbs in order to more fully connect with them. ”

In honor of Spring's arrival, here are a few of my favorite ways to get to know plants one-on-one:

• Observe. Consciously pay attention to the plant life that grows everywhere. Choose one plant -- you just need one -- that you will become deeply acquainted with, whether it's a tree, shrub, herb or weed that you pass in your daily routine. Notice what the plant looks like every day and how it changes throughout the year. Notice as it leafs out, opens it flowers, and creates seeds. Notice how it dies or goes dormant in the winter, and if it comes back the following spring. This is a slow practice that takes patience but it will give you so much insight into the growing patterns of your chosen plant.   

• Be still and sip. Consciously sit with a cup of tea (made of one herb), and approach it as a sort of meditation. Appreciate and take in the color, scent, flavor and viscosity of the tea. Notice every single little detail. See how you feel about it, noticing its effects on your physical body and your emotions. After practicing with single herbs like this you may be surprised to discover you know exactly which herb will suit you best in the moment, and what herb to choose when you are unwell.
• Use your imagination. Take a piece of paper and some colored pencils or pens. Go sit outside next to a plant that catches your attention. Start doodling as you look at the plant, just letting your pencil flow and not trying to draw the plant exactly as it looks. Add in colors. Be free and messy. Soften your gaze and allow yourself to play as your draw the plant. Pay attention to your intuitions about the plant; let your imagination use it as a starting point and see what artful expressions you create. What do these expressions tell you about the plant? What do they tell you about your relationship to the plant?

I encourage you to try out these simple methods. In my practice I believe it is so important to taste, smell, observe and interact with herbs in order to more fully connect with them. You can gain so much from these simple exercises.

If you would like more guidance in connecting with plants and learning how to use herbs in your daily life, perhaps you'd like to join me in one of my upcoming Herbs for Everyday Living series...

Warmest Spring wishes to you!

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Steph Zabel, MSc, is an herbalist and educator who helps urban dwellers connect with the plant world.  She teaches herbal classes, is available for individual wellness consultations, and is also the founder of HERBSTALK, Boston’s community herbal conference.  Learn more about her work at: www.flowerfolkherbs.com and www.herbstalk.org.

Elecampane (Inula helenium)

By Steph Zabel,
Herbalist, Ethnobotanist and Educator

I must admit, elecampane is one of my favorite herbs. But it is often an acquired taste, and many people don’t get past its surprisingly pungent and forceful flavor, eschewing it for more mellow-tasting herbs. However, once you give it a chance there are many gifts to be gained from this beautiful and healing plant.

Photo by Radu_Privantu via Wikimedia Commons

Before we get to its use in herbalism, I want to note that elecampane is often planted in gardens due to its tall stature and beautiful flowers. It is a relative of the sunflower and you can see the resemblance in the cheery, long, yellow petals and in its graceful height. This plant will grow taller than a human! Elecampane takes its botanical name, Inula helenium, from the legend of Helen of Troy. Legend has it that the plant sprung up in the places where her tears fell when she was kidnapped from her home.

“It can reach deep into the lungs and gets things moving again by clearing and releasing old infected mucus. Emotionally it is also used for grief and sadness that is stored in the lungs.”

The pungent root is the part used in herbal medicine; it is harvested in the autumn when the plant is two or three years old. As alluded to above the taste of the fresh or dried root is strong: it imparts a bitter, spicy and warming flavor all at once.

Elecampane is most famous for its ability to strengthen and support the respiratory system. It is known as one of the best herbal expectorants for congested and stuck mucus in the chest, phlegm-y coughs, and for many respiratory infections, such as bronchitis. It can reach deep into the lungs and gets things moving again by clearing and releasing old infected mucus. Emotionally it is also used for grief and sadness that is stored in the lungs.

A strong antiseptic and bactericide that helps resolve bacterial infection elecampane will change thick, green, infected mucus to white or clear mucus. Old herbal writings also indicated the use of it for shortness of breath and swollen and inflamed respiratory conditions.

Photo by Radu_Privantu via Wikimedia Commons

In addition to its wonderful respiratory properties, the bitter properties of the root stimulate the appetite, overall digestive function and help increase the flow of bile from the liver to the small intestine. Traditionally it was used for all sorts of digestive woes from intestinal parasites to stagnant digestion to imbalanced intestinal flora. In fact,  another amazing attribute of elecampane is that the root is a rich source of source of inulin. This is a storage carbohydrate found in some plants which feeds and supports healthy digestive flora, acting as a prebiotic, i.e. food for our good gut flora.

HOW TO USE:

➤ To make a decoction of the root, place 1 tablespoon dried root in 2 cups of water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil then lower to a simmer and cover. Let cook for 15 to 20 minutes, then strain out the root.

Note:  Avoid elecampane during pregnancy.

RECIPE: Elecampane Infused Honey

• Fill a small glass jar 1/3 of the way full with cut, dried elecampane root. Cover completely with raw, local honey. Stir as best you can.
• Cap with an air-tight lid, and label the jar with the ingredients and the date.
• Let this mixture steep together for 2-4 weeks. You may want to flip the jar upside down every so often so that the root moves back and forth through the honey and does not stay clumped together in one spot.
• Taste the honey at intervals to see when it has reached its desired strength.
• To strain out the herb you may need to gently (very gently!) heat the honey in a warm water bath. The heat will loosen up the honey and allow the root to be strained out more easily. But you want to be sure not to heat it up too much or you will destroy much of the nutritional goodness in the raw honey.
• Once the root is strained out, place in a glass jar and store in a dark cupboard.
• Use this honey on its own or mixed into a hot cup of tea to help with coughs, colds and stuck congestion.

REFERENCES:

Botanical.com
RJWhelan.co.nz
PlanetHerbs.com

Steph Zabel, MSc, is an herbalist and educator who helps urban dwellers connect with the plant world.  She teaches herbal classes, is available for individual wellness consultations, and is also the founder of HERBSTALK, Boston’s community herbal conference.  Learn more about her work at: www.flowerfolkherbs.com and www.herbstalk.org.

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This blog series — Herbs and Botanicals— is for general health information only. This Web site is not to be used as a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment of any health condition or problem. Users of this Web site should not rely on information provided on this Web site for their own health problems. Any questions regarding your own health should be addressed to your own physician or other healthcare provider.

Frankincense: A Sacred Resin

By Steph Zabel,
Herbalist, Ethnobotanist and Educator

Last month we covered an exotic, aromatic tree and this time we’ll continue with the arboreal theme. Except now we will explore a small, shrubby tree that is native to dry, desert climates (rather than tropical environments, like cinnamon is). The resin of this fascinating plant — native to India, Oman, Ethiopia, Somalia, Yemen and Saudi Arabia — has been used for over 5,000 years. It has been highly regarded as a medicine, an aromatic perfume, a ceremonial tool, and was once worth even more than gold.

Photo by Ben Norvell via Wikimedia Commons

Perhaps you are familiar with the scent of frankincense — often burned as incense in religious ceremonies. Or perhaps you are more familiar with the essential oil — sometimes referred to as olibanum. The oil is commonly used in aromatherapy for soothing chronic stress and anxiety, reducing pain and inflammation, and boosting immunity.

It is also an ingredient in many natural skin care products because of its anti-inflammatory properties. Frankincense is believed to help protect and heal skin cells and is used to reduce acne, prevent wrinkles and slow signs of aging. It is an astringent, meaning that it helps to tighten and tone loose, sagging or lax tissues. The essential oil can be added to any moisturizing serum as a nice, supportive addition to a daily skin care routine.

Its physical properties also make frankincense a powerful antiseptic; it is used to eliminate bacteria and viruses, and can help disinfect an area — use it as an aromatherapy spritzer or burn the resin for this purpose.

Photo by Mauro Raffaelli via Wikimedia Commons

The astringent action of this plant can also help eliminate phlegm and congestion in the lungs. For mucous-y situations that seem to hang around in the respiratory system or sinuses, try frankincense as it will not only help to dry up mucous but will also act as an anti-inflammatory in the nasal passages, making breathing easier.

Finally, when rubbed on the body topically frankincense oil can improve circulation and the symptoms of joint or muscle pain in arthritic and rheumatic conditions. It tends to have a soothing effect for any sort of bodily inflammation.

“The Chinese called it “fanhunxiang” meaning “calling back the soul fragrance.” It is often used in meditation, since the scent is calming, grounding and pleasant to the senses. It helps one to become more present in the moment and encourages feelings of peace.”

Let’s speak a bit of the more esoteric and spiritual aspects of this amazing resin… Frankincense is a venerable old tree, in use for thousands and thousands of years. It was so highly treasured that it was brought as one of the gifts of the Wise Men to be presented at Jesus’ birth.  The resin was also found in the tombs of Egyptian mummies, used not only as an embalming agent, but also as an offering to help the departed souls make their journey to the afterlife.

Amongst many cultures around the world the fragrance of this resin was believed to increase one’s spiritual connection and intuition. The Chinese called it “fanhunxiang” meaning “calling back the soul fragrance.” It is often used in meditation, since the scent is calming, grounding and pleasant to the senses. It helps one to become more present in the moment and encourages feelings of peace.

Several religions use frankincense incense in their ceremonies. It may be used to prepare the environment for ritual, and is said to call forth the angels and other invisible beings to assist in creating sacred space. Symbolically, the smoke that rises as the resin burns helps to carry prayers and offerings to Heaven.
 

HOW TO USE

Make Frankincense Water:
Place 4-5 small pieces of resin in a quart sized jar. Cover with boiled water, cap, and let steep for a few hours or overnight. The resulting liquid will be light in color and a bit cloudy. Drink up to a cup or so a day, using your taste buds to guide you on your own proper dosage. This tea comes in handy when you are feeling congested. Many people also drink it to help with arthritic or painful joints.

Use the essential oil topically:
Dilute 10 - 15 drops of frankincense essential oil in 1 oz. of a carrier of your choice (olive, jojoba, grapeseed, or almond oil) and rub onto the skin. This is useful for scarring, acne, wrinkles and painful joints.

Burn the resin:
To burn the dried resin use a small charcoal disc (often sold to use in hookahs). Light the charcoal outside on a fire-proof dish and when it finishes smoking and sparking it should simply glow. Place 1 to 3 small pieces of resin on the charcoal and it will start to burn immediately. The resulting incense is pleasant and sweet and can be used to clear and purify the air.

NOTE: Frankincense should not be used during pregnancy, because of its emmenagogue and astringent qualities.

REFERENCES:

Sacred Earth
Dr. Mercola
Enfleurage.com

Steph Zabel, MSc, is an herbalist and educator who helps urban dwellers connect with the plant world.  She teaches herbal classes, is available for individual wellness consultations, and is also the founder of HERBSTALK, Boston’s community herbal conference.  Learn more about her work at: www.flowerfolkherbs.com and www.herbstalk.org.

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This blog series — Herbs and Botanicals— is for general health information only. This Web site is not to be used as a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment of any health condition or problem. Users of this Web site should not rely on information provided on this Web site for their own health problems. Any questions regarding your own health should be addressed to your own physician or other healthcare provider.

The Tree of Spice: Cinnamon

By Steph Zabel
Herbalist, Ethnobotanist and Educator

For many people, cinnamon evokes thoughts of the holiday season, of tasty desserts and of cozy kitchen aromas. And rightly so, for it is such a common and comforting culinary spice.

Despite being a staple of kitchens throughout the world, cinnamon is very much a plant of the tropics. True cinnamon is a small, evergreen tree that is originally native to Sri Lanka. The aromatic bark is the part that is harvested for use in food and herbal preparations. For ages it has been a highly regarded and often mysterious spice… The Greeks used it to flavor their wine and the ancient Egyptians used it in exotic blends for incense to perfume the air.

By Köhler–s_Medizinal-Pflanzen via Wikipedia

There is often some confusion surrounding the different types of cinnamon, since there are actually several species of trees which are sold on the market. True cinnamon, Cinnamomum verum, (also called Ceylon cinnamon) is grown in Sri Lanka. There is also Cinnamomum cassia, Chinese cinnamon or cassia, which tends to be more commonly sold in powdered form in the United States. To me, cassia cinnamon has a bolder, spicier taste to it, and true cinnamon is lighter and sweeter. Try both kinds to see which one you prefer.

The first time I ever had cinnamon as a tea — yes, it can be drunk as a tea! — I was on a very small island in the Caribbean. The local people there drink cinnamon for upset stomach and digestive issues. I remember feeling so surprised by the tea — how immediately delicious and sweet and warming it was. It was one of the best things I had tasted!

Several herbal traditions around the world also use cinnamon for digestion as it stimulates and supports weak or stagnant digestive organs. It can be especially useful for nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.

By L. Shyamal via Wikipedia

I like to think of cinnamon as a more gentle substitute to ginger. We all know how spicy and warming ginger is, and all the great benefits it has for the digestive system… however, for some people dried ginger is just too hot. If you’re like me and ginger root makes you sweat and feel uncomfortable, you probably already have a warm constitution and don’t need something so strong. Try cinnamon bark instead.

Given the inherent warming properties of cinnamon, it has traditionally been used for “cold” conditions such as a weak digestion, cold extremities or poor circulation. It may also be quite helpful for reducing the uncomfortable symptoms of Reynaud's Syndrome. In women, it can be helpful in improving blood flow to the pelvic region, especially in cases of amenorrhea or fibroids.

Cinnamon also seems to play a role in regulating blood sugar and is often recommended for people with diabetes as it can improve insulin utilization. How interesting, then, that it is such a traditional ingredient in sweet, sugar-filled desserts around the world!

Finally, the bark of this wonderful tree possesses anti-inflammatory properties; as such it may help inhibit allergic reactions by reducing the histamine response caused by seasonal or environmental allergies. Blend a bit of cinnamon bark with nettles to help combat a dripping nose or itchy eyes during allergy season.

HOW TO USE CINNAMON:

➤ To make a tea use up to 1 tablespoon of the dried bark per 2 cups of water. Let simmer for 20 minutes in a small saucepan on low heat. Then strain out the bark. You can use whole cinnamon sticks (crushed) or cinnamon chips.

➤ Use cinnamon bark as a more mild substitute for ginger in teas/chai blends if dried ginger is too warming and stimulating.

➤ Sprinkle powdered cinnamon on top of beverages, warmed milk, or desserts.

Note: It is believed that Cassia cinnamon — which is high in natural coumarins — can be damaging to the liver when used in large quantities over time, especially in sensitive individuals. If you use cassia cinnamon, use only in moderate does. Or, choose to use true cinnamon instead which does not contain the high level of coumarins that cassia does.

Photo by Steph Zabel

RECIPES:

Here are a few fun cold-weather, holiday recipes below. One is for a cinnamon and apple cordial that will help you stay toasty warm in the winter months, and the other is one of my favorite recipes of all-time, my root chai blend. Enjoy!

Cinnamon Apple Cordial

• 6 cups tart, local apples, seeded and coarsely chopped
• 1 cup raw honey (or more to taste)
• 2 large cinnamon sticks, crushed
• 1/2 vanilla bean pod, sliced in half
• brandy to cover

Combine all ingredients in a large glass jar. Shake often to help the honey dissolve. Let infuse for 4-6 weeks then strain through a cheesecloth and store in a clean, dark colored bottle.

Steph’s Root Chai Blend

• 6 cloves
• 6 cardamom pods
• 1 tsp. black peppercorn
• 1-2 tsp. dried ginger root
• 1 tsp. dried orange peel
• 1/2 Tblsp. cinnamon bark (sweet or cassia)
• 1 Tblsp. burdock root
• 1 Tblsp. roasted dandelion root (roasted will yield a deeper, darker flavor)
• 1 Tblsp. roasted chicory root
• 1 Tblsp. astragalus root

First, grind together the cloves, cardamom and peppercorn in a mortar and pestle. This will help their flavor be dispersed throughout the whole tea. Combine these crushed pieces with the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Store in a tightly capped glass jar. This will make about 5-6 servings of tea. 

To brew the tea, add up to 1 Tblsp. of the chai blend per two cups of water in a small saucepan. Bring everything to a boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer covered at for least 20 minutes. Just be sure to keep an eye on the water level and don't let it evaporate too much. When it is as dark and spicy tasting as you would like, strain out the roots and add milk and honey to taste.

 REFERENCES

Botanical.com
University of Maryland Gazette
Herb Wisdom
Acupuncture Brooklyn  

Steph Zabel, MSc, is an herbalist and educator who helps urban dwellers connect with the plant world.  She teaches herbal classes, is available for individual wellness consultations, and is also the founder of HERBSTALK, Boston’s community herbal conference.  Learn more about her work at: www.flowerfolkherbs.com and www.herbstalk.org.

*The next Herbstalk event is the Wintergreen Herbal Market taking place on November 26th at the Armory in Somerville! More details can be found here!

This blog series — Herbs and Botanicals— is for general health information only. This Web site is not to be used as a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment of any health condition or problem. Users of this Web site should not rely on information provided on this Web site for their own health problems. Any questions regarding your own health should be addressed to your own physician or other healthcare provider.